Both types of products will protect the paint against moisture, ozone and ultraviolet. Sealers, which are typically petroleum based and contain silicones, usually last longer (up to a year or more) than ordinary wax.  A wax or sealer that is applied by rubbing it on your car finish will always give you better protection than the product that’s sprayed on at the car wash.  When choosing a wax or sealer, choose one that’s right for your vehicle’s finish.  Many newer cars and trucks have what’s call a “base coat, clear coat” finish.  Over the base color coat of paint is a layer of clear paint to provide added shine and protection.  Some car makes say it isn’t really necessary to wax or seal a base coat, clear coat paint job.  But it certainly isn’t going to hurt anything as long as you use a product that is designed for this type of finish.  Wax or sealer for a base coat, clear coat finish should contain no abrasives or polish.  Abrasives are often added to wax to remove the oxidized layer from the surface of the paint.  When wax is applied it has a polishing effect that helps shines up dull faded paint.  It works great on solid color finishes, but not clear coated finishes because it scratches and dulls the clear coat.  When applying wax or sealer always follow the instructions that come with the product; wash and dry your vehicle before you wax it; don’t wax in the direct sun during the heat of the day, wax in the shade or early morning, or late in the day when the sun isn’t so hot; use a clean, soft, damp rag or sponge to apply the wax or sealer; avoid getting wax or sealer on the glass or on matte black finished moldings or paint, or on a vinyl roof; apply wax to a small area then let dry before wiping and buffing, if you try to do the whole car or too large of an area, the wax or sealer may have too much drying time and be difficult to wipe off; elbow grease works best, power buffers are faster, but requires skill to do a really nice job, and if you are using a wax or sealer that contains abrasives, excessive force on a power buffer may buff right through the finish; you shouldn’t have to repeat the job until water no longer beads up on the finish when your vehicle is wet.

Both types of products will protect the paint against moisture, ozone and ultraviolet. Sealers, which are typically petroleum based and contain silicones, usually last longer (up to a year or more) than ordinary wax.  A wax or sealer that is applied by rubbing it on your car finish will always give you better protection than the product that’s sprayed on at the car wash.  When choosing a wax or sealer, choose one that’s right for your vehicle’s finish.  Many newer cars and trucks have what’s call a “base coat, clear coat” finish.  Over the base color coat of paint is a layer of clear paint to provide added shine and protection.  Some car makes say it isn’t really necessary to wax or seal a base coat, clear coat paint job.  But it certainly isn’t going to hurt anything as long as you use a product that is designed for this type of finish.  Wax or sealer for a base coat, clear coat finish should contain no abrasives or polish.  Abrasives are often added to wax to remove the oxidized layer from the surface of the paint.  When wax is applied it has a polishing effect that helps shines up dull faded paint.  It works great on solid color finishes, but not clear coated finishes because it scratches and dulls the clear coat.  When applying wax or sealer always follow the instructions that come with the product; wash and dry your vehicle before you wax it; don’t wax in the direct sun during the heat of the day, wax in the shade or early morning, or late in the day when the sun isn’t so hot; use a clean, soft, damp rag or sponge to apply the wax or sealer; avoid getting wax or sealer on the glass or on matte black finished moldings or paint, or on a vinyl roof; apply wax to a small area then let dry before wiping and buffing, if you try to do the whole car or too large of an area, the wax or sealer may have too much drying time and be difficult to wipe off; elbow grease works best, power buffers are faster, but requires skill to do a really nice job, and if you are using a wax or sealer that contains abrasives, excessive force on a power buffer may buff right through the finish; you shouldn’t have to repeat the job until water no longer beads up on the finish when your vehicle is wet.